With Manami-san in her restaurant in Gion

No matter what they say I love Gion…

KanikakuniGion wa koishi Neru toki mo makura no shita no mizu no nagaruru No matter what they sayI love GionEven in my sleepThe sound of waterFlows beneath my pillow This beautiful poem was written by Isamu Yoshii. I was happy to be in Kyoto to see the plum blossom. On my last night there I … Read more

In snowy Aizu

Thrilled to have a chance to visit Aizu, which features large in Across a Bridge of Dreams. I’d wanted to come when I was in Japan last year but Aizu is in Fukushima Prefecture and not that far from the Fukushima Dai chi Reactor and – more to the point – the Aizu friends I … Read more

Japan still finding its feet, one year on

At Senso-ji temple in Asakusa, Tokyo’s most well-loved tourist spot, people clap their hands, throw coins in the offering box, waft incense over themselves and stare up at the city’s latest landmark, the Sky Tree, a soaring television tower, currently the tallest of its kind in the world. When I was here last year, right … Read more

Back to Kyoto and the geisha district

I’m sitting at a low table in a tatami room in the little old geisha house where I normally stay, in Miyagawa-cho, just down the road from Gion. It’s somewhat low class – the lowest class of the five Kyoto geisha districts – and therefore friendlier. Every time I come to Kyoto I discover all … Read more

Lesley Downer interviewed by Italian literary blog ‘Critica Letteraria’

Il Giappone e le sue tradizioni: una storia di amore e dedizione Intervistare Lesley Downer, affermata autrice di saggi e romanzi di ambientazione nipponica, contribuisce a sfatare il mito-maledizione secondo cui il più delle volte l’immagine che ci costruiamo di un autore che abbiamo amato va a cozzare inevitabilmente con la realtà, facendoci uscire dall’incontro … Read more

Why ‘Across a Bridge of Dreams’?

Today when the summer thrush Came to sing at Heron’s Nest I crossed the Bridge of Dreams. Have decided on the title for my new book: Across a Bridge of Dreams. The ‘bridge of dreams’ is an incredibly resonant concept in Japanese culture – it’s our short human lives, a bit like the Anglo-Saxon concept … Read more

After each disaster Japan rebuilds bigger and better

The Japanese love of order and ability to start anew will help them confront the earthquake crisis, believes Lesley Downer. In Japan, you are constantly made aware of the power of nature. Summer is hot and steamy; in September there are typhoons; and during the rainy season in June it feels as if someone has … Read more

Waiting for disaster is a way of life in Japan

In Japan, you live with the possibility of earthquakes. When I first arrived, in 1978, I was woken one night by the bed in my seventh-floor hotel room thudding against the wall. I was terrified, but soon discovered that tremors happen regularly; eventually, I came to take them almost for granted. As people there say, … Read more

The Courtesan and the Samurai – lecture dates tour 2011 update

Forthcoming lectures: Sunday July 17th Festival of Living History, Kelmarsh, Northants. 11.40 – 12.40 ‘WHAT WOMEN WORE – AND WHY’ Panel with Hallie Rubenhold and Laura Wilson – and re-enactors in costume! http://www.thehwa.co.uk/content/festivals http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/events/festival-of-history-2011/ Watch this space!

World’s greatest grilled eel

Heading for home after 3 weeks in Japan, just as the cherry blossom starting to fall. Chickened out and didn’t go north – though many friends have. It’s long exposure one needs to worry about. A short trip is fine. Instead went south twice – to hotsprings of Beppu, temples of Kyoto, and south again … Read more