In Kagoshima you can’t escape the enormous looming presence of Sakurajima, the craggy volcano which dominates Kinko Bay. It spews out black ash which hangs in the air above it; when the wind blows west it blows it over the city, when it blows east it blows it away from the city. There’s ash heaped in corners, blowing into nooks and crannies. It’s prime evidence of Japan’s incredible geological volatility. In fact what everyone was worried about was not an earthquake but Mount Kirishima, near here, which has been erupting for months.
To English eyes this geologically young landscape is quite thrilling – flat plains abruptly ending in sheer crags clothed in dense jungle-like foliage; and hot springs pour out of the earth. Spend my time morning and evening soaking in mineral rich water. Today remembered the rule that ‘hot is better’. The indoor pool was quite hot, enough to make me sleepy. But the outdoor pool – the rotemburo – with steaming water pouring out of the rocks, was so hot I had to have a think and take a deep breath before I dared put my foot in. I edged the rest of me in – fast is better – until I was sitting up to my neck, barely moving. If you move it scalds. Felt really wide awake! Tsukare toru, they say – it takes away your tiredness.